Small stars

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0-year-old German born designer, Gwendolynne Burkin, is passionate about her craft. In an interview earlier this year, she labelled her contemporaries lazy. Most are more interested in the whole idea of wearing clothes than hands-on making them, she said.


Burkin, an RMIT fashion graduate, is a designer, bordering on demi-couturist, who learnt her trade in the traditional sense.


She cut her teeth as a designer with Katherine Hamnett and Diva in London and Bettina Liano, Sportsgirl and Victoria Loftes in Melbourne before launching her own label in 18.


Her designs, inspired by feminine silhouettes and the demure dress codes of bygone eras are meticulously assembled, from pattern through to production, even if it means handstitching them herself.





Delicate details such as draping, ruching and bustles and distinctive materials, including antique french lace and hand-beaded vintage fabrics are her trademark.


Her style is unmistakable - beautifully tailored and timeless.


Gwendolynne is stocked throughout Australia and Hong Kong.


Whats next? This year, I decided to make money, says Burkin. This means she is concentrating on ready-to-wear garments. The results are equally exquisite, more wearable and slightly more affordable. If the critics, who hailed her latest collection at MAFW a success, are right, she is on her way to her first fortune.


Where to buy Fat 7, 7 Chapel Street; RPM, 50 Lygon Street.


Label Toni Maticevski


Toni Maticevski, 4, is as well known for knocking back a job with New York fashion guru Donna Karan as he is for his demi-couture designs.


In 17, fresh out of RMIT, Maticevski completed work experience with Karan as part of a scholarship prize. After two weeks he felt stifled by the lack of spontaneity and returned to Australia. The following year, the media-shy designer launched his label from the loungeroom of his Laverton home, where he still lives with his parents and sister.


Earlier this year he won the New Designer Award at the Melbourne Fashion Festival and an invitation to showcase his designs at Mercedes Australian Fashion Week where the pundits were impressed by his obsessive attention to detail, which included pleated silk chiffon dresses, pin-stitched trousers and elaborate rouleaux strapped tops.


Unorthodox cutting and draping are the signature of his designs.


Whats Next? I really want to break into Europe. There is a real market for couture designers over there. Id like to become a global name.


Where to buy Ivy Hopes, 6/7 Swanston Street.


Label Sass & Bide


They have no formal fashion training, but that hasnt stopped long-time best friends, Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton, from revolutionising womens jeans.


Ex-accountant, Clarke, and ad exec, Middleton, are the brains behind the low-slung jeans that groovy young things around the globe cant wait to squeeze into, including TVs influential clothes horse, Sarah Jessica Parker.


The chance meeting with Parker on a New York street is now legendary. Clarke and Middleton literally bumped into the starlet who later ordered 0 per cent of their collection. The clothes will appear in upcoming episodes of Sex and the City.


While Clarke and Middleton are best known for their hipster jeans (they were the first to use the 5cm zip), their Premiere line of customised pieces have been just as successful.


Their style philosophy is a combination of their staple denim range, including jeans, jackets and mini-skirts and a limited edition line, including corsets and pill-box hats that are a little bit left of field.


Whats next? Having achieved such lofty heights in just two years, theres plenty of scope for the future.


Where to buy Fat 7, 7 Chapel Street; Fat 5, 5 Johnston Street, Fitzroy; Cactus Jam, 7 Glenferrie Road, Hawthorn.


Label Claude Maus


The man behind the whimsical designs of the Claude Maus label, is -year-old Melburnian Rob Maniscalco.


With just two seasons under his belt, the fine arts graduate with a passion for arthouse movies is best known for his off-beat designs, which have included customised tops featuring European football club logos and a striped dress with a no4 emblazoned on the back.


Currently stocked in Sydney and Melbourne, the refreshing range (for men and women) of customised tops, shirting, tailored leather peasant wear, silk blouses and sports-inspired detailing is difficult to define. Some critics have coined it construction meets deconstruction. However you describe it, it is fresh, fun and original. You wont see any rip-offs from the runways of Paris, New York or Milan in this collection.


Whats Next? Fingers crossed, Maniscalco serves up more weird and wonderful designs that will earn him further recognition here and overseas.


Where to buy Ivy Hopes, 6/7 Swanston Street.


Label Ty & Melita


Melburnians Ty Henschke and Melita Turcsan are the design duo behind Melbournes label-of-the-moment, Ty & Melita.


The pair combined forces in 001 and between them have 5 years experience. Previously, Henschke worked behind the scenes for Bettina Liano, Ellin Ambe and most recently, Roy. Melita has worked in patternmaking and production for Scanlan & Theodore, Jenny Bannister and Glen Rollason.


The label is best described as slick and sexy. Spring/summer includes black harem pants with thigh-high splits and macrame-fringed mini-skirts, using jersey fabrics and well-cut silks and satin that hang beautifully on the body. Highlight pieces are trimmed with peep-show lace and lots of cutwork.


Whats Next? The duo will launch a feminine, sexy line of denim later in the year. Keep an eye out for it!





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